Surfing Litteracy Essay

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As a young child growing up in Shadowlawn, I was exposed to the beach culture at a very early age. I always loved the beach; it was my favorite place to go in the whole world. As a grommet, I always had an interest for surfing but mostly just stuck to body boarding. That all changed when I got my first surfboard. I was twelve years old and I was the most stoked* child on the planet walking out of the store with that board. I started to go to the beach everyday, but not my local break, at the time I was a kook and my local place was a zoo. Not a good mixture to say the least. Eventually I started to paddle out at my local spot which was much more convenient. It was just a short five-minute bike ride and I was there. I immediately started picking up words that where dropped frequently in the lineup. The first word I learned was grommet, which was me, a young surfer. I learned a bunch of new words most of them were used to describe either how good someone is at surfing or how good they aren’t. Like if someone is surfing well you can say they are ripping or shredding. If they are not they are a kook or a barney. Also if you want to make up a word or something to describe someone’s surfing your welcome to it. If it’s good people will say it, if not they’ll let you know. I think my favorite made up word was gnar, which pretty much means radical. The idea of creating a new word seems like an awkward thing for a kid of my age to have been thinking about. If you ever surf you’ll understand. It’s just an outlet you use to express your extreme happiness. I remember the best barrel I ever got and the words I used to express my happiness afterwards. It was wintertime and I was surfing a spot with just a couple of buddies. This little nugget, small but solid wave, was rolling through towards me. I whipped around paddled and dropped in. I saw the wave was lining up good so I

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