Sunset Surf Essay

441 Words2 Pages
Think about surfing, and images of freedom, excitement and health immediately come to mind. There are no lift tickets, greens fees or membership dues. Nature's waves are free and have been for millions of years. Waves are gifts from the sea, surprising surfers each day. Things are always new and exciting. Surfing is the movement of a board through the face of the wave. Surfing is becoming a very popular sport and it seems like once someone starts surfing they never stop. Some famous surfing spots include Hawaii, California, Costa Rica, Southern Africa and more. Surfing is all about the wave and in fact it is all about my wave. There are many reasons why a person would want to surf and until you actually surf you may not agree with them. I cannot really describe surfing, no surfer can but they will tell you it is the most peaceful but adrenaline filled sport you can do. Surfing is very addictive. I surf to relief stress or to make me feel happy when I am sad. Surfing is very powerful. The water provides a natural peace and the waves are beautiful to watch. Being able to experience the energy of the wave is the best part. It is surely a gift from God. Every moment of surfing brings a feeling of security and peace to your mind, from the smooth strokes of the new, fresh wax being rubbed onto your board. That warm comforting squeeze your wetsuit gives you. Walking down to the beach and feeling the soft sand in between your toes. The smell of the ocean calms all your senses, Feeling the cool water on your hands and feet as you paddle out beyond the breakers. The most amazing spiritual experience is sitting on my board, by myself, watching the sun set over the horizon. Nothing else like this makes me feel as good. On the horizon a wave approaches. I turn my board around and use every ounce of strength in my harms to get momentum. I turn my head and see the wave towering

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