# Ocean Beach Analysis

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Ocean Beach Beach Profile This photo was taken from the peak of the dunes at Ocean Beach. To measure the beach profile we used a ‘dumpy level’ and started at the water’s edge and carried on until we reached the dunes at Ocean Beach. The beach measured 110m, the overall change from the water’s edge to the peak of the dunes was 2.34m, and the beach was a long gentle sloping beach. This is shown in the photo but also in the graph I made with all three beach profiles placed on it, which is found at the end of my presentation of results and analysis of data. A gentle sloping beach is found at Ocean Beach which is caused by long shore drift, long shore drift is the name given to the process by which the beach sediment (fine sand at Ocean Beach) is transported along the coastal area by the action of waves. As waves approach the beach, the base of the wave hits the sea bed in Ocean Beach’s case, this causes the wave to topple forward and to ‘break’ during this motion the wave picks up loose sand. As the wave progresses up the beach it turns into swash, but due to prevailing winds the swash which is carrying the sediment is pushed in the direction of the prevailing winds. The backwash then pulls the sediment back down at right angles to the coast. This process moves the sediment across the beach as well as up it creating the gentle slopes at Ocean Beach. This process is shown in the diagram at the bottom of the page on the left. The final parts of Ocean Beach’s profile are the dunes which are located 110m from the water’s edge. These dunes are created with the combination of winds blowing onshore, loose sediment and Marram grass. The prevailing winds which cause the movement of swash, also pick up loose sediment found on the beach and move it in its own direction up the beach. The Marram grass which is found at the top of the beach catches the sand and after time sand